A Soft Fraction of the Ocean

Dining is one of the most sensorial experiences of the everyday. Each breakfast, lunch and dinner nourishes our bodies, and at times, also our minds and souls. Whilst many believe that taste reigns in this equation, I believe that the atmosphere and the environment play an equally important role. At times, though rarely, even the journey of getting there sets your mind up for what is to come.


On a day trip to Kamakura during winter, we had the pleasure of visiting Enoshima. Just off the main island of Kamakura, getting to Enoshima requires you to cross the Enoshima Bentenbashi, a pedestrian bridge that welcomes you to the island with fresh sea breeze, and sights of the waters that surround the island.


The bronze torii gate greets you at the other end, channeling you to the narrow and bustling Benzaiten Nakamise Street – where you can find inns, restaurants and a variety of shops selling souvenirs, takosenbei, dango and more. We were ready for a meal but were in search of a dining venue with less of a crowd. We took a right at the end of Nakamise Street, opting for a route that snakes through residential streets and with occasional views of the sea. The stillness of midday accompanied us as we navigated a maze of front and backyards, occasionally stumbling upon short shopping streets that sold refreshment and locally crafted goods.


After acquiring some elevation, we arrived at the gates of Enoshima Shrine Okutsumiya. Just 50 metres past these gates was our chosen lunch spot – Uomitei, a 140-year-old establishment serving local fare. We were offered several seating options – traditional tatami style, western with tables, or outdoors. We opted for outdoors since it was full indoors, and the weather seemed just right for our daily vitamin D fix.

We were led to a terrace with just a single row of counter seats. And our hearts literally stopped. Before us was an unobstructed view of the sea that rolled on endlessly. The rippling sheet of blue eventually eased into a bright but hazy band that mysteriously fused it with the sky. This was, in our minds, the epitome of a perfect horizon line. It was hard not to be distracted, but we had another task at hand – to order our meals.


As they say, “when in Rome, do as the Romans do.” Applying this very same concept to most of our meals when travelling, we opted for the Kamaage (boiled) Shirasu-don Set with Crab Miso Soup and Japanese Pickles. Shirasu is essentially the fry of sardine and is in season from April to December in the Kamakura and Shonan regions of Kanagawa. However, springtime shirasu (harvested mid-March to May) is said to have a sweeter aftertaste. Shirasu generally has a mildly salty aroma of the sea, and is usually eaten dried, boiled, or raw with soy sauce. We also ordered a Grilled Whole Squid Seasoned with Ginger and Soy Sauce to share.


The shirasu-don was topped with a generous serve of boiled shirasu and garnished with minced ginger and seaweed. Adding just a dash of soy sauce, we mixed well before eating. Each bite was a marvelously fluffy and soft fraction of the ocean – with the mild saltiness and sweetness of the shirasu shining through the fragrance of steamed rice. The crab miso soup was the perfect accompaniment, and each mouthful was warm and comforting in the chilly sea breeze. Being quick eaters by nature, the environment encouraged us to eat mindfully – to truly take in the surroundings and appreciate the food that we were consuming. It was an honest and unforgettable experience.

After the satisfying meal, we descended several flights of stairs and took a short stroll towards the Chigogafuchi Abyss where you can get some killer views of the sea (and of Uomitei, where we had just taken our lunch!).


If you are up for some cave exploration, the entrance to the Iwaya Caves awaits at the end of the Iwaya Bridge. The Chigogafuchi Abyss is famous for its sunsets and its spectacular views of Mt. Fuji on days where the skies are clear. Though we were not able to catch a glimpse of Mt. Fuji that day, we left Enoshima feeling enveloped by the sheer beauty of mother nature and contented for having had a bowl of the ocean.

UOMITEI
2 CHOME-5-7 ENOSHIMA,
FUJISAWA, KANAGAWA
251-0036, JAPAN

Text and images  by ANATOMY OF THINGS