The Forgotten Pauses
Japan is one of the countries we visit frequently. We often ask ourselves: what is the allure of Japan that keeps us coming back, even as we repeat many of the same experiences each time we return? Through our numerous visits and the literature we have read on its art and culture, we have come to realise that much of the country’s traditions emphasise an awareness of the passage of time. Yet, it is not simply an awareness of time’s movement but also the moments between transitions—the pauses we often overlook. Perhaps what draws us to Japan is the opportunity to learn how to reclaim the pauses in time that we have lost. We first realised this during a visit to a kissaten in Karuizawa.
A kissaten or a "tea-drinking shop" in Japanese, is more aptly described as a Japanese-style tea room that is also a coffee lounge. With a history dating back to 1888, it emerged during the Meiji Era, serving Western black coffee and English tea instead of the traditional green tea found in Japanese tea houses. Adorned with Western art deco interiors and beverages served in fine British porcelain, a kissaten introduced not just beverages from the far west, but also a taste of Western art, music, and culture—a true emblem of modernity in its time.
Today, kissaten are often tucked in allies off bustling old shopping streets in Japan. That’s how I encountered my first one—seeking an escape from the crowded shotengai. A kissaten experience is distinct from that of a typical café’s. Despite being filled with guests, there is a comforting quietness and slowness within the space. Muffled conversations blend into the upbeat bebop jazz playing in the background and at first glance, it may seem like not much is happening. In reality, everything unfolds at a deliberately slower rhythm, and time itself seems to stretch.
Rushing feels almost forbidden in the space. After selecting your coffee beans with care, the owner takes his time to grind and brew it. His practised movements unfold at a measured pace–not frustratingly slow but rather perfectly timed and most mesmerising to watch. Even the guests who need lights are presented a box of matches instead of a lighter—an intentional and more primitive option.
Most guests were either alone seeking respite or in quiet pairs, absorbed in their own thoughts and making only occasional conversation. Those seated at the bar counter seemed to be regulars engaging in daily small talk with the owner. No one seemed in a hurry or preoccupied with capturing the perfect Instagram shot. Perhaps a kissaten attracts like-minded individuals—people who appreciate slowness and find comfort in the deliberate pace of life within its walls. It takes two to create such an atmosphere—the café and its patrons must both embrace it.
As I joined this rhythm, attuning myself to the subtle interplay of sound, movement and aromas, I watched my coffee flow through the dripper into a delicate porcelain cup. At that moment, I became acutely aware of the contrast within and beyond the confines of the kissaten. Inside, time stretched carefully, deliberately; and outside, the world rushed on without pause. As I sipped my coffee, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of pleasure—that of gaining a little more time in the pauses I so often miss on my usual coffee runs.
As I stepped back onto the busy shotengai, I was reminded that perhaps I have been speeding through life rather than soaking in its moments. At times, in our pursuit of doing more, we end up experiencing less—missing the moments in between. While we cannot gain more time, we can certainly choose to take our time. A kissaten offers the perfect space to do just that—to embrace slowness, to appreciate the pauses between ourselves and the fast-moving world. The next time you find one, do take your time. Savour the stillness, the unhurried moments, and perhaps, you will find more than you ever expected.
Text and images by ANATOMY OF THINGS